rosemary restaurant
Quick-stop Japanese restaurants are springing up in city centres all around the UK,
but the peaceful, rural setting of Stanton House Hotel’s Rosemary Restaurant feels a
world away. Jennie Clark steps out from Bristol’s bustle to appreciate the art of sushi.
It’s an unusual prospect, anticipating
specialist Japanese cuisine on the approach
to a Wiltshire country manor. Situated next
to acres of ancient woodland in Stanton
Park nature reserve, Stanton House Hotel
appears every bit a part of its classic
Cotswold setting.
Originally created for workers and their
families based at the nearby Honda plant,
the food at the hotel’s two restaurants has
developed a reputation that’s outgrown its
initial purpose. Diners can choose between
the intimate and authentic Mt Fuji
restaurant, where shoes are removed at the
door, and the Rosemary a la carte
restaurant overlooking the leafy grounds.
We began our meal at Rosemary with warm
sake. Although it’s referred to as a rice
wine, it carries the punch of a brandy or
liqueur. When it’s warm it quickly loses its
fleeting heat, but it also has a sense of
occasion that drinking it cold can’t match.
A menu made up of so many little dishes
always breeds indecisiveness, but
thankfully the sushi and sashimi is available
as a chef’s selection to share. The sashimi
moriawase is available with four or seven
fish varieties (£13.50/£19.50), and the nigiri
sushi moriawase includes a selection of 12
pieces of sushi (£18).
For one of our starters we chose the
chikuwa isobe – a stack of thin, crispy
fishcake pieces in light and crispy seaweed
batter (£3.40). As well as classic teriyaki
and deep-fried squid, the starters include
more adventurous specialities like octopus
and sautéed ox tongue.
For the main course we had shogayaki, stirfried
pork loin with ginger sauce and fresh
salad (£13.60) – thin slices of local meat
drenched in fragrant oriental broth. We also
had nabe yaki udon (£12.50) – noodles in a
hot, clear soya soup with tempura prawns
and vegetables, a lightly poached egg and
tofu. This was a vast, homely bowl of fat
noodles soaking up the light soup, the giant
prawns on top and the poached egg leaking
out rich liquid yolk.
For dessert you can choose from Japanese
fruit salad and different ice creams, but we
went for a sweet adzuki bean-filled
pancake.
The chef at Rosemary trained in Japan, and
many of the specialist foods used in the
restaurant are also available for sale in the
Japanese food shop next to the restaurant –
you can even order sushi grade fish to make
your own at home.
Every Sunday, there’s a Japanese buffet
(£11.95 pp) with a full selection of sushi,
sashimi, soup, tempura and other hot
dishes – the perfect way to take the time to
sample some of the cuisine’s special
delights. And surrounded by acres of space
in the nearby nature reserve, it’s got all the
ingredients for a perfect afternoon.